Sunday, February 28, 2010

It’s Better to Burn Out, Then to Fade Away

I jumped in on another flash fiction thing being hosted by Dan O'Shea, because last time was so fun. You can check out all the entries where Dan has them compiled on his website right HERE. The theme this time around was that the story had to be 1000 words (give or take) "set wherever good folk hit their knees." That is, in a place of worship. What follows is my offering. Hope you dig it.

It’s Better to Burn Out, Than to Fade Away

It was in some church in Montana where I helped my buddy Sherman pull the bandages off the wound in his belly and waited for him to bleed out. We’d been on the run for fifteen or sixteen hours, I guess, and he was done. I think he knew he was dead the minute that biker stuck him. A hospital could have saved him, but to Sherm that wasn’t an option. He’d been on the wrong side of the law enough times before that this incident would probably land him some serious time. Time he wasn’t gonna do.

I shouldn’t have even been there. Sherm had called me about some deal he had going down, and asked if I’d back him up. He wasn’t a guy to look to anyone for help, so if he was asking I knew he was into something serious. So I joined him at a truck stop to make an exchange with three heavies from some wannabe outlaw MC. Things got ugly in a hurry, Sherm got stabbed, and I shot at least two of those fuckers. We hauled ass out of there with Sherm gushing blood all over the front seat. We hit a Walgreens on the way outta town for bandages and shit and I did a pretty good job on his wound. Still, we both knew it wasn’t gonna end well without some kind of miracle.

He told me to head for Canada. His mom was Canadian; he always called it the “Motherland” even though he’d never been there. That’s a long fuckin’ way to go, but we had a wad of money and reliable wheels, so that’s where I headed.

*****

We saw the sign for the church coming up. I didn’t even know Sherm was awake, so I was kinda startled when he shifted in his seat and said, “Turn here, man, let’s check this shit out.” His voice was raw, like he’d been shouting or something.

It was well after midnight but the sky was clear and the moon was damn near full, so it was pretty light out really. I killed the headlights soon as we turned onto the road that would take us up to the church, just so no one would see us pull in and come investigate. The building wasn’t that big, just this brick thing with a fence around it and some outbuildings.

First thing I noticed when I stopped the car and got out was how fucking cold it was outside. I jogged up the sidewalk to the church, found an open side door, then helped Sherman inside. I had one of those big Mag-Lites and shined it around. I have to say it was pretty damn breathtaking – there were big murals painted on the walls and ceiling, like something outta Europe. It was also creepy, seen by flashlight. Like some kind of post-apocalyptic shit. Even Sherm thought it was cool; I could see it in his face, which was so pale it practically glowed in the dark.

*****

“Hey man, it’s kinda funny we’re in a church, isn’t it?” Sherm said. We were sitting there in the cold on those hardass benches, and moonlight was slanting in from the windows in big beams, like something out of a fancy photography magazine.

“Yeah, I don’t think we ever been in one before,” I said.

“You know any good Catholic jokes?”

“I think maybe a couple. I don’t know if this is a Catholic church, though.”

“Doesn’t matter, they’re all the same.” I felt him shift around, trying to get comfortable. “Tell me one of ‘em.”

I had to think a minute. Then I said, “This chick goes into the confessional, and says, ‘Forgive me, Father, I have sinned.’ Preacher says, ‘Yes, my child, what have you done?’ Chick says, ‘Last night I was parked with my boyfriend and I . . . I masturbated him to orgasm.’ Preacher nods his head and says, ‘Well, that is quite sinful. For penance I want you to recite 50 Hail Marys while washing your hands in the holy water.’”

I pause to take a swig on my beer and Sherm says, “That it?”

“No. Chick’s washing her hands and her friend comes in. ‘What are you doing?’ the friend asks. Chick says, ‘Oh, I jerked Bobby off last night and now I have to wash my hands in holy water.’ Friend frowns and says, ‘Well, don’t get it too dirty, ‘cuz I’ll probably have to gargle with it.’”

Sherman starts to laugh, and I know it must have hurt like a bastard because he was groaning and cussing the whole time he was laughing. “That’s a good one,” he says between moans and curses. “You were probably the friend in the joke, you homo,” he says.

“Fuck you, Sherman.”

Sherm was quiet again for a while. I wondered what he was thinking about – what would I think about if I was him, you know? Then he said, “You remember when we were kids, and we went to see that movie Highlander?”

“I remember. It’s the one with those dudes cutting each other’s heads off. I got it on DVD. It’s a classic.”

He coughed and groaned some more. “You remember that part when they’re in that bigass church and that evil dude is making the pussy-lickin’ faces to those nuns?”

“Yeah, the fuckin’ Kurgan, man.” I couldn’t help but smile. We spent our teen years wanting to be the Kurgan.

“I keep thinkin’ about that,” Sherm says. “I keep thinkin’ about when he gets up to leave, and his voice is all rough and he’s got that big scar on his neck where Sean Connery about cut his head off, and he says, ‘I have something to say! It’s better to burn out, than to fade away!’ I always remembered that line.”

I nod my head, though Sherman probably isn’t even looking. I’m afraid to talk because now I feel like I’m gonna cry.

“What about you – you rather burn out, or just fade away?”

Takes me a couple seconds to compose myself. “No contest, man. Burn out. Burn out bright and take as many motherfuckers with me as I can.”

*****

I woke up, I don’t know, a couple hours later. It was getting light outside. I got up off the pew I’d been sleeping on and checked Sherman. His face was blue and his skin was cold and kind of rubbery. His eyes were half open. I pulled the sleeping bag up over his face and tucked it in around him.

Then I left.

*****

Goin' to the Country

A couple nights ago Julia and I went to see a movie which, considering some of the other movies nominated, I'm surprised isn't up for Best Picture. Jeff Bridges is up for Best Actor, though, and if he doesn't win it it will be a travesty. His love interest in the film, Maggie Gyllenhaal, is none-too-shabby in her Oscar-nominated (Best Supporting Actress) role either. I'm talking about the country music-themed Crazy Heart. And yeah, I can hear some of you weisenheimers already, so don't bother: "Did this poser just say country music-themed? Isn't he supposed to be some kind of metal guy or something?" Look, I'm a music fan. Yes, some forms are more likely to get my blood pumping than others, but I like stuff all over the map. About the only stuff I really can't abide is the current era's "pop" country (which, to me, is like this generation's version of 80's "hair metal") and that real free-form style of jazz where it sounds like everyone in the band is soloing simultaneously in opposing keys. Oh yeah, and upbeat modern white-guy "blues" also makes me want to stab something more than just my eardrums. So back off me about country music, real country music, before I have a rage spike. And this thing absolutely is about real country music, in a whole bunch of ways.

The movie starts with some great shots of landscape, and a battered old truck driving through it. It is depicting a trip from New Mexico up to Pueblo, CO, where Bridges' character, Bad Blake, has a gig. If you've never driven that part of the country, you should get off your ass and do it -- it's beautiful. These vistas stomped my road trip bug like some greasy pick n' grinner hitting his tube screamer before flashing up and down the neck of his telecaster for a 48-bar solo. Damn, I just want to get out and drive, you know? Am I the only one who ever feels that way?

I'm not going to really talk about what this movie's about. You can check out reviews for that. I'm just going to strongly suggest you go see it before it's out of the theaters. Here's the trailer:



I mainly want to talk about the things that really had an impact on me, and have stayed with me since seeing it. At the end of that drive which I already talked about, Blake rolls up to where his gig is going to be, in the lounge at a bowling alley. Not exactly the Grand Ole Opry. First thing he does is empty out the plastic jug of piss that is half full. Then he limps on inside, obviously suffering from a fairly acute case of road ass, and looks to recon where his gig is supposed to happen. He exchanges words with the manager, orders a beer and finds out that not only doesn't he get to run a tab, but he's paying full price. And so it goes. You can just feel his frustration in the set of his face and in his body language.

That, my friends, perfectly illustrates the glamorous world of touring (Julia has her own story-of-woe to tell about a tour stop in Pueblo, which involves an unplanned three days waiting for the van to be fixed). It could be a rock band, a country band, whomever. Unless you are big time (or middle-time with a trustafarian in your band), these days you aren't cruising around in chartered buses. It's long drives in shitty, smelly vans with bullshit to deal with at the end of every trip. It's amazing how grateful one can be when you get somewhere and the people are actually holding up their end of the bargain. Look, a couple-three drink tickets for beer can make a huge difference when a group rolls in tired and stiff from 400+ miles between gigs. Not to mention the luxuries of a comped meal or, heaven of heavens, a decent friggin' motel room. This movie captured all that -- the grime, the stink, the sense of hopelessness -- perfectly. And Bridges nailed the performance of a guy just dealing with it, simmering with anger while trying not to be an asshole, and falling into the bottle just to numb his senses. It's a story of love, loss, and redemption, with characters as real as any who have ever stepped over the threshold of some dive and muttered, "So what the fuck do we have here. . . . "

Like Julia said afterward. At no point does it feel like we are watching Jeff Bridges. He is Bad Blake. He even did his own singing, and did a helluva job.

The next thing that jumped out at me is when a guy shows up at Blake's motel to make arrangements for working out the material with the musicians who will be his backing band for the night. I immediately recognized the young-looking guy with the hat-head as Ryan Bingham, an artist I've been a huge fan of since his 2007 album Mescalito. That record is as good as anything I've picked up, and his latest, Roadhouse Blues, ain't too shabby either. Here's a bit from his bio:
He's lived on his own since his mid-teens, when circumstances and substance abuse tore apart his nuclear family. Rather than get sucked into the system that's destroyed so many adolescents, he took a road far less traveled - riding bulls on the highly-competitive rodeo circuit around the Midwest and southwest. It was on these long hauls that Bingham was able to get in touch with his musical muse, taking things public one night at a bar in Stephenville, Texas.
I just wish I'd taken the trip to see his band play The Filling Station in Bozeman, a dive I've played numerous times, when I had the chance. Seeing as how he did the title song to this movie, and is up for an Oscar for Best Song, the chances to see him in a small venue may have just passed us all by.

The last couple years I've been telling myself that I really need to get my chops together enough on the guitar to play a lot of these old standards, and write a few songs in that vein. Julia and I have spoken about it at length. It is something we can do together and have fun with, and have just been too busy with other projects to make it happen. We've sat outside downtown a couple times busking, and it's been a blast. We intend to do more of that -- throw our guitars in the vehicle wherever we go and have the means to at least earn enough for a meal, and probably meet some interesting people along the way. It is "music of the people" in so many more ways than a lot of the other stuff I love. I love the loud rock band, but sometimes the logistics -- big amps, room big enough for the volume, electricity, etc. -- can be irritating.

When I hear this kind of music, sometimes the emotions are as overwhelming as anything else has ever been. I'm happy that this movie, besides making me thankful I've never fallen prey to the bottle, reminded me how much I love this kind of music when it's done well.

ignore the first 20 seconds of bullshit commercial on this video

Wednesday, February 24, 2010

Fending Off the Hoard

A couple weeks ago the neighbors on one side of us apparently got the heave-ho courtesy of their landlords. In a stressful couple days there were sheriff cruisers out front, strange cars, and then moving vans. You would have thought that it all happened at the last minute, given how one day we're chatting out at the driveway and two days later all hell was broken loose, but who knows how these things go. They were nice people, with two kids, and great neighbors. I don't know what the falling out was, and I'm sure the truth was somewhere in the orbit of what the guy told me had gone down, but that doesn't matter. Bottom line is they were unprepared for the move and were in a state of serious freaking out. We ended up keeping three cats and three rats at our house for a couple days, and after that a refrigerator and some outside toys in our garage for another day. All's well that ends well, and they are settled somewhere new now. I just hope the new neighbors aren't assholes.

What struck me is just how much shit they had. Boxes and boxes. A couple pickup truckloads, a small U-Haul's-worth, and at least two trips with a big U-Haul. It was staggering to see all that stuff just rolling out of that little house, trip after trip, load after load. Besides my reflections on how many unfortunate people are in those straights -- losing jobs, losing their homes, etc. -- it also made me think of my own accumulated stuff, and how out of hand it's gotten. That stresses me out. Probably more than anything else, to be honest with you.

I don't have much attachment to things. If my house burned down, as long as my pets and family got out okay, I don't think I'd be that devastated. Yeah, I love my books and my music and all that, but none of that is irreplaceable. I could just make a side trip through my office and grab my external hard drive thing and I'd have all my music anyway, in a space the size of a small hardback book. There's even a window I could dive to safety out of. I've also picked up some prints and things over the last couple years that I really like, but again -- I could live without them. In my heart of hearts, I would prefer to be a guy who could literally throw everything he owns into a fancy leather satchel and maybe one of those big army duffel bags and be on his way, foot loose and fancy free, you know? Or, worse case, maybe fit everything I own into the back of my truck. That, to me, would be perfect.

Reality is a long way from that. Hell, there is enough music gear out in the garage to more than fill my truck. We may only have three people in the house, but among us are two full drum sets, more bass gear than I really need (there is a price to be paid for awesome volume and building-shaking power), a Marshall half-stack, a 2x12 combo amp, another 4x12 cabinet, some PA gear, etc. I do pretty well keeping my books culled, but there are still way more than any person really needs on hand. Same with CDs and records. Personal junk I've saved over the years amounts to three or four plastic crates in my closet. Then there's furniture, clothes (I could slip in a joke about Julia's bursting closet full of clothes and shoes, because that is the passion that most tweaks her hoarding proclivities, but I have far too much of that stuff too), and all the other houseware shit people accumulate. I should say, all the shit Americans accumulate. It's too damn much.

In the last ten years or so I've moved a bunch of times. A couple included cross-country trips (the last one I made, everything I owned pretty much did fit in the back of my truck). One was only a matter of a few blocks. Every one of them sucked. The last big move was when I went down to Tucson and moved Julia and her stuff (including 3 friggin' dogs, two of which slept on the dashboard most of the way) up to Missoula. That was one big rental truck with a car on a trailer behind it. It was a huge move, but at least the drive was beautiful. That was something like four years ago, and I'm pretty sure there are still a few boxes in the garage that have never been officially unpacked. Just stuff we all save because we don't want to throw it all out. Hell, I've been packing two crates full of old Dungeons and Dragons stuff around for 20+ years. What the hell use will I ever have for that?

Thing is we hope to be moving again here in the next two-to-three years, into a much smaller place. We aren't the Collyer Brothers, by any stretch, but it still means a lot of the stuff we have now is going to have to go between now and then. That's something I look forward to having taken care of. It may not get down to just a satchel and a bag, but it will be as close as possible, believe me!

Friday, February 19, 2010

Lies, Lies, Lies, Yeah

This internet thing has been going around; I guess they call it a meme or something? I don't know, all I know is I got tagged by writer Dan O'Shea, who is laying the blame on the feet of "that bastard" Keith Rawson. I guess it has its origins with that Canadian writer John McFetridge, who is feeling all high and mighty because his new book Let it Ride just came out (which you should check out, of course) and he apparently started hyperactively slinging this stuff all over the place. I don't know, but when it comes to fishing stories I'm not going to let the likes of those guys one-up me. Here is O'Shea, who left this requirement on my ePorch this morning like a flaming paper bag of dog shit, explaining:
The ground rules?

• Tell up to six outrageous lies about yourself, and at least one outrageous truth – or – switch it around and tell six outrageous truths and one outrageous lie. (See below.)

• Nominate some more “Creative Writers” who might have fun coming up with outrageous lies of their own. (Check the end of this post.)

• Post links to the blogs you nominate.

• Leave a comment on each of the blogs letting them know that you have nominated them.

I don't know about tagging anyone else, since everyone else I know has already been tagged (yeah, thanks guys, pick the fat kid last). But here goes with my 6.

1. Unlike Joelle Charbonneau, and O'shea apparently, I was never much for rollerskating. In fact, as a kid I was pretty terrible at it. There used to be a roller rink in Missoula, and I would occasionally be forced to go with my two older sisters. One time -- I was probably still in my single digits age-wise -- I totally wiped out while leaving the skating area during one of those times where the announcer tells everyone to clear the rink. Some girl a few years older turned around and said something snarky about my skating ability. Nikki, my oldest sister (she has 5 years on me, which makes here really friggin' old now), wasn't having it. She had stern words for that girl, and before it was all over she had walloped one lippy chick in the face and sent 3 or 4 others crying to the rink authorities.

2. Same sister, several years later. My first year out of high school I was living in town with her to supposedly attend the University of Montana. In the apartment next door lived a group of college guys. For whatever reason, they were really into The Thompson Twins. Every couple days they would have it on their stereo loud enough for us to hear it on our side of the wall. That would piss Nikki off, and she would immediately go to her stereo, put on side 2 of AC/DC's Back in Black and crank it way up. Then she would go over right next to the wall and scream, "How do you like that, you little fuckers!" I never worried about them getting pissed and coming over, because we've already established she could kick ass in a fight. All 5'4" inches of her.



3. When my bandmates at the time and I had all graduated high school and moved to Seattle to become rock stars (little did we know at that time we would have been smarter to pack flannel instead of spandex), we were invited by a friend of ours to play his Halloween house party out in the country. He had these flyers all over, advertising live music, a keg, etc., plus the cover charge. So we are up there, had rocked out one blistering set, and were just hanging out. There were maybe 30 or 40 people there, no big deal. All of a sudden the house is full of dudes with guns and jackets that said ATF in bold letters on the back. Turned out a number of the costumed people were undercover agents, and they had set up this huge sting operation to shut down what was nothing more than some 20-something's private party. I'm sure someone somewhere got a royal ass chewing at the expense of the operation. The idea was that because their was a keg there and a cost to get into the party, technically that amounted to selling alcohol without a license, and they expected some kind of massive, Woodstockian bacchanalia, I guess. I don't think they even arrested anybody.

4. I literally didn't start drinking beer until I was in my 30s. I've never smoked pot or taken any kind of illicit drug in my life. I've only hurled from alcohol after (during, actually) one night of debauchery, and the resulting hangover-lite that I had is the only one I've ever experienced, and it wasn't that bad.

5. My last band used to play a show just about every year in Big Sky, MT, which is a fancy ski resort, mainly because they always treated us like rock stars. One night, the last night of the season, we were up there and this bar was just packed with 20-somethings. It was crazy, and events had been going on all day. One of the bands before us was playing, and it was our PA, when a fight down front broke out that caused monitors to start getting knocked about and mic stands went flying. Me and the guitar player, Jimmy, came over the front of the stage from the back into the fray and started flinging bodies around. When all was said and done we stood in the midst of an open space, back-to-back, with about 50 or 60 North Face-clad bodies strewn about. It was awesome.

Would YOU start a fracas with this epic display of Man Meat? No, I didn't think so.

6. My last act as a boy was to save a smaller boy from drowning while swimming at the Frenchtown Pond, back before it was a "state park" and was just a swimming hole where you could drive your rig right down to the water's edge if you wanted to. The kid fell off an inner tube and was sinking like a stone and I hauled him out long enough for my mom to swim from shore and help me drag him back to land. Meanwhile his mom was up on the shore drinking and smoking and never even knew what happened. I say it was my last act as a boy because the kid's teenage sister did see what happened, and she promptly took me back in this secluded little stand of trees -- you know, the one where passing through banditos used to congregate to smoke their mary-who-wanna -- and made a Man out of me.

7. I had a debilitating crush on Molly Ringwald when I was in high school. I remember watching Pretty in Pink for the nth time at the theater, and there is a scene during the opening credits where she slowly pulls a stocking* up her leg. My friend, whom we called Lex, leaned over and sneered, "This is the closest you're ever going to get to that!" I was torn between bursting into tears and punching him in his smug little face.

* I originally typed "stalking"; Freudian slip, anyone?

Now you, oh wise readers of this blog, tell me which of these little anecdotes are legit, or utter bullshit?




Thursday, February 18, 2010

Forgotten Books: The Island of Dr. Moreau by H.G. Wells

On a hot summer day in 1977, my cousin Casey and I spent the entire, glorious day at the local tri-plex theater. We paid to see one movie, but hopped the red velvet ropes between films and saw all three features, one of which had such a profound impact on me that, even though I only saw it the one time over 30 years ago, I have never forgotten it. We saw Viva Knievel (which is worth its own post in a "forgotten movies" discussion), starring the motorcycle daredevil Evil Knievel. We saw another movie that has maintained a little more staying power than the Knievel flick, a little movie you might have heard of called Star Wars. And the third was the Burt Lancaster/Michael York sci-fi/horror film The Island of Dr. Moreau. I was young and impressionable, with an imagination always on the lookout for some new flight of fancy. And though, like everyone else my age, I thought Star Wars was one of the coolest things I'd ever seen, it wasn't the movie that I left the theater obsessed with. I was smitten with the animal/human hybrids that were created by the twisted Dr. Moreau.

In 1977 I was ten. As I mentioned in my last forgotten book post, my primary companions as a youth were two big dogs. After seeing the movie, I constantly played "Island of Dr. Moreau" with the dogs, tearing around out in the fields around the house, and back in the line of trees that bordered a ditch that bisected the property about a quarter mile away. I had a set of those plastic vampire teeth that you can get when Halloween costumes come out, and I used to run around pretending I was some kind of half man/half animal creature, with super strength and agility, of course. I don't know how long this went on, and I don't remember if I ever got any friends to play the game with me (though I don't believe I did, because no one else had seen the movie), but I do know I only saw the movie that one time. Nor will we speak of the 1996 remake, which I did, unfortunately, see.

The blogger, circa 1977, wrangling a wild animal at the Western Montana Fair

Fast-forward now to 2010. Last week I was browsing through the local used bookstore, idly looking for whatever caught my eye. Particularly I was looking for "forgotten", to me at least, books. I found myself in the "W" section (looking to see if they had any Daniel Woodrell, to be honest), when I saw they had several works by H.G. Wells. I was shocked to see The Island of Dr. Moreau among them. Turns out it was his third novel, published in 1896.

Again, I don't know how forgotten this book is to people more well read than I, but I sure didn't remember it, not as a novel anyway. I'm ashamed to say I'd never read it before. I'm certain I was aware that it existed as a book, but the movie has always been my point of reference. And that it was written by H.G. Wells? Sure, it makes sense now, but I would expect that most people who think of H.G. Wells and his novels tend to think of works like The Time Machine or War of the Worlds first. Who knows, maybe I'm wrong. I'm no Wells scholar, that's for sure. I picked up a copy and read it while hunkered down in a motel room on the edge of a big chunk of wilderness that serves as home to myriad wild beasts, not the least of which are wolves, grizzly bears, mountain lions and wolverine. That seems somehow appropriate. Yes, there are less threatening species in abundance too, but it is the big predators that keep us up at night, right?

The blogger as adult, still wrangling wild animals, this one with significantly less than human intellect

The story is told in the first person by a narrator named Edward Prendick, who is rescued at sea after being the only survivor of a shipwreck. His rescuer is a doctor named Montgomery, who has a strange and brutish manservant named M'Ling. The captain and the crew want nothing to do with either men, and their loathing is passed along to include Prendick. The only other passengers are an odd collection of animals kept on deck in filthy cages.

When the ship arrives at the island home of Montgomery and M'Ling, the captain also chooses to throw Prendick off the ship, leaving him stranded on the island, with no other ships expected for months. Ultimately Prendick learns that the island is the home of Dr. Moreau, a London physiologist who was run out of town after his gruesome experiments in vivisection were uncovered. He has continued work on this remote island, and is working to alter animals in such a way as to make them human-like. The long and short of it is Prendick is horrified and mayhem ensues.

This little novel is more horror than science fiction. It is also a great adventure story, a shipwreck story, and a meditation on some ethical concerns of Wells's era that are frighteningly relevant today. For example, from the "Note" section that precedes the first chapter:
Dr. Moreau, the surgeon turned vivisectionist, is one of Wells's earliest and most sinister personifications of the scientific question to control and manipulate the natural world and, ultimately, human nature itself. The ethical questions raised by Wells in this novel, written almost a century before the science of biomechanical engineering existed, continue to grow in relevance as genetic manipulation becomes increasingly more commonplace.
GMOs? Cloning? Hell, even stem cell research. These are all things going on in the real world today that Wells seemed to be waving a red flag and shouting, "Do you people really want to be doing this kind of thing?" What would he think of our world today?

I enjoyed the book. More than once I paused, shaking my head that the story was written more than 100 years ago. It doesn't read like so many of the older books do, in a strange and archaic form of language. That it is presented as a report by Prendick, any inconsistencies can easily be attributed to the unreliability of the narrator, so I was never jolted out of the story by any writerly indiscretions. Is it the greatest book I've ever read? Certainly not, but I had a lot of fun with it and will certainly read it again. I'm happy to have found it. I'm looking forward now to rewatching the old, 1977 movie.

Monday, February 15, 2010

Mushers, Start Your Engines!

Quite often when I travel and I tell people I'm from Montana, they'll think they are the first to make a joke about the state being where "that Unabomber guy was from, right?" Believe me, I've heard them all. People have weird ideas about Montana; I always get a reaction. Sometimes dismay like, "Why would you live there? Do people actually live there?" to "Oh my god, you're so lucky to live there!" Others have no idea where it is geographically, which is also bizarre. A guy I met in SFO thought it was next to Kansas. "That's Missouri, actually." "It is? Where's Montana then?"

Anyway, this past weekend Julia and I ventured north and east to spectate on a tradition that fits perfectly with a respectable and suitably outdoors-based image of Montana: dogsledding. I'm talking about the 25th Annual Race to the Sky, which would be starting the 300 mile leg in Lincoln at noon on Valentine's Day. So we ventured to Lincoln Saturday afternoon to spend the night and then check out the dogs on Sunday. And yes, Lincoln is where the Unabomber was living. It isn't that far for us, just a little over an hour's drive, and it is a gorgeous one.

The sun was starting to set, which makes it a dangerous time for encountering wildlife on the highway. We saw countless deer, and a couple big bald eagles feasting on deer carcasses alongside the road. Thankfully we didn't encounter any bears. We did pass a group of about thirty or so elk; they were moving in a line, and where they were gathered wasn't in a spot I could really photograph them, though I did get shots of a couple. I love to see the mighty wapiti.

We took luxurious accommodations at the Blue Sky Motel in Lincoln. Hey, it may not be fancy, but $50 + tax ain't too shabby!

It wasn't long before Julia had the heater blasting full bore, then she slipped into her sexy pjs and got busy . . . sewing? That's right, folks. Writers like to act all pretentious with their laptops in coffee shops so they can "work," let alone packing around greasy moleskins and the like, but my girl won't let a little romantic overnighter get between her and TCBing as time allows.

If there was any romantic buzzkill going on, it was the sound of snowmobiles roaring up and down the street at night, which was odd because there really wasn't much snow out there along the main thoroughfare -- just tracks and skis scraping over pavement, rocks and ice. It was pretty loud; it sounded like they were right outside the window! Peering out our front window the next morning, it turned out they were!

It's been years since I went snowmobiling. We used to do it all the time when I was in junior high and high school. Usually it would be me, my mom and my dad. Most often we'd go up to Seeley Lake where a friend of my dad's had a cabin, then we'd go roaring around out there in a big group. I have fond memories of that. I wonder if my dad does, though, given that for every hour we spent out here --

grainy output from my dying scanner of Mom, circa early 80s

-- he probably spent two in this position:

grainy output from my dying scanner of Dad as snowmobile mechanic, circa early 80s

After packing up our suite at the Blue Sky, we headed for the site of the day's dog-related festivities, which were being hosted on the grounds of the Hi-Country Trading Post. That is where they package and sell all manners of deee-licious meat products (jerky, salami, summer sausage etc. of beef, elk, bison, etc.)

We arrived an hour or so before race start. The junior mushers -- five teams of youths 13 - 18 -- had already left. A short distance from the trading post, Absaroka Dogsled Treks were setting up four teams of dogs, offering rides for $35. These were something like five mile treks too, so it would have been pretty cool to do.

The dogs were chilling out patiently, waiting to get in on the action.

They were brought out two-at-a-time per sled and fixed in their traces.

Once in position, these dogs really voiced their excitement and desire to get on the damn trail already!

So you can imagine what it sounded like once more dogs were getting put in position.

Can't imagine? Dig this video, then, which will show you even though my camera proved to be pretty inadequate for capturing particularly high quality video.



A woman next to us was talking about what it's like at the Iditarod, where you literally have thousands of dogs all getting put in position, and resulting noise. I hope to witness that one day, sooner than later! Moments later, they were off!



After the joyride teams were away, we wandered through the area where the race dogs were being readied. Again, when they were just chilling before being harnessed, they were as docile as you can imagine, half of them sleeping where they sat, or just people watching.

Every team had a guest to ride along with them. I'm not sure of all the details, but I believe these valuable posts were auctioned off at the banquet a couple nights prior, but I could be wrong. And I also think the riders may have only been for the leg from start to the first checkpoint. Again, I could be wrong. But here is one of the contestants explaining how it all works with her guest rider.

One of the great things about the sport is the number of women involved, both as helpers with the teams and actual mushers competing right alongside, and beating, the men.

Then it was time to head for the starting gate, where people queued alongside the trail up the big hill that started the race. The first team was put in position, and those dogs were very excited.

Moments later they were off, and the race was officially underway!



You can see my camera pan around at the end. Like a dumbass, I assumed all the teams queued up after the first one would take off in one baying mob, but that isn't how it works. The next team would be put in position, with the sled on the starting line, and after about three minutes or so would be counted down to takeoff. That makes sense, obviously, to avoid wrecks and general free-for-all shenanigans. Still, a land rush-like start would be pretty fun (though dangerous, I'm sure, for the dogs). It took some time for thirteen teams to be lined up and unleashed.

The excitement remained high throughout, mostly because of the enthusiasm of the dogs. Those organisms with shorter attentions spans found ways to keep themselves amused as well.

Most of us were pretty rustic in our attire. This lady, however, was fancy.

She decided to venture up the hill for a better vantage . . . whoops!

Maybe not. A little help here, please?


After a while Julia and I ventured farther uphill too, to see the dogs arrive at the apex of their initial climb. Oh, and in case you guys are questioning my chivalric attitude based on the previous three pictures, Julia slipped and fell once on the way up too. I pretty much pointed and laughed at her as well.



All too soon it was over, and everyone headed back down the hill. It sure seemed like a great time was had by all.

I really can't overstate how awesome this was. I've been a distant fan of this sport since I was probably ten years old. It's clear to me it is time to be a much less distant observer. Each contestant is carrying a GPS, and you can log onto the website to see the positions of each racer. This was the image this morning when I first started this post.


The Missoulian was there and had an excellent article in today's paper. Check it out here. They have pictures, and the Race to the Sky website has some too.

I had a blast. I can't wait to do something like this again. Getting out and doing stuff like this is like pushing the reboot button on my soul, as woo-woo as that sounds. I tried to share my enthusiasm with some of our crew, but they didn't seem too interested.

Oh well.